Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Best digital angle gauge 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated April 1, 2019
Best digital angle gauge of 2018
If you’re reading this, it is very likely that you’re scouting for the best digital angle gauge. Following is the list of top three digital angle gauge of 2018. I want to find something that’s designed well (both for aesthetic purposes and efficiency). Simply review and buy them.
Test Results and Ratings
|Ease of use||
№1 – Calculated Industries 7434 AccuMASTER 2-in 1 Magnetic Digital Level and Angle Finder / Inclinometer / Bevel Gauge
Why did this digital angle gauge win the first place?
I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. The material is stylish, but it smells for the first couple of days. I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing!
№2 – Tacklife MDP01 Classic Digital Magnetic Angle Gauge Level / Bevel Gauge/ Protractor / Angle Finder with Zinc Alloy Material
Why did this digital angle gauge come in second place?
The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed. Managers explained me all the details about the product range, price, and delivery. The design quality is top notch and the color is nice. I like this product. For such a low price, I didn’t even hope it to be any better. It’s decently made.
Why did this digital angle gauge take third place?
A very convenient model. It is affordable and made of high-quality materials. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment.
digital angle gauge Buyer’s Guide
You know, if you already have an Altendorf sliding table saw with digital controls, you really don’t need that phone. You need to send it to somebody with one of those Sears saws that has a pair of vice-grip pliers where the hand-wheel belongs.
The brightness of a stone is one of the most important factors in a stones beauty and value.
On the Australian opal fields you don’t hear the words” fire” used when miners talk about how bright a stone is. The term is however used a lot on the internet to describe a stone’s brightness, and to gauge opal brightness evenly over different stones.
This is the brightness chart you will see on most internet auctions with being the brightest.
Currently the Opal association is working on a chart which will have seven levels of brightness with number ONE being the BRIGHTEST.
Check on listings to make sure what chart is being used.
Opal sizes are listed in millimetres (25.mm = inch) and weights are listed in carats – just like all other gemstones and the jewelry mountings for them A calibrated shape gemstone should fit most jewelry mountings designed for those dimensions.
An opal that is within 0.to mm of a calibrated size may acceptably fit into many calibrated mountings. Calibrated shape opals typically cost 15% to 50% more than a freeform shape opal due to the wastage of the opal when cut.
A freeform or larger size opal can be cut to a smaller size by an experienced cutter. Or you can have a custom jewelry mounting made for your unique opal, often for less expense than you might expect.
Thickness of the opal is a major factor in the carat weight of a precious opal gemstone – but an opal that is unusually thick will be considered less valuable as it may have to have excess weight removed to fit in a jewellery piece.
Play of Color
The very best precious opals have play-of-color across the entire gemstone when rotated. Most precious opals do not have play-of-color across 100% of the gem and are still stunning. Every natural precious opal gemstone is unique. Some precious opals have a flash, a Harlequin or other unusual pattern, rainbows, ribbons of color or many variations that are both beautiful and stunning while not covering 100% of the opal’s face.
If an opal doesn’t have Play-Of-Color, it isn’t precious opal.
Sometimes an area of the opal will have a Play-Of-Color flash from a particular viewing angle, while another area of the opal flashes best at a different viewing angle. You may have to rotate or pivot the Gem Stone and/or change positions between you, the opal and the viewing light to see Play-Of-Color from a particular area of many opal Gem Stones. These stone are directional and are usually best suited to a pendant.
The most expensive opals have at least some wonderful Play-of-Color from most viewing angles. Sometimes an opal is at its best if lighted from the side or from slightly ‘above’ which would make it an ideal opal to use for a pendant. Some opals are at their best and brightest ‘face up’ – when the viewer has the light source over her shoulder to view the opal face-on like a ring stone. Some of these patterns can EXPLODE and look stunning.
Visible Opal Flaws
A whitish to cream color area visible within your opal’s surface is often called ‘clay’ or ‘silk’ or ‘sand’, small bits of clay present when the opal was forming.
A ‘Matrix’ opal that has precious opal surrounded by visible rock or clay it formed within will be less valuable than a solid opal or most quality constructed doublets.
Potch lines across the colour face are acceptable provided they aren’t contrasting with the stones appearance. Most black gems have some potch in the face which doesn’t stand out but grey potch on a black stone would so it would decrease its value.
Sometimes a line inside the opal is just how the opal naturally formed and not a crack or flaw. Hold it close to a lamp shape to see it you can see a fractured reflection. If large areas of your opal have no precious Play-Of-Color (sometimes called ‘potch’), that will reduce the value of the opal.
If there are visible scratches on the surface of the opal, its value will increase after the opal has been professionally polished to remove them. Cracks that go through the thickness of the opal’s surface will reduce its value. To save a damaged valuable precious opal keepsake, cracks can sometimes be repaired and no longer be visible to the unaided eye.
Any seller of precious opals should always tell the customer if an opal has been repaired, stabilized or otherwise treated.
It must be remembered that opal reflects light and digital cameras are not built to capture the amazing patterns and colour changes in opal.
A simple experiment is to place a stone on the floor by a doorway in natural sunlight, and move the stone back inside taking several photos along the way. You will most likely find that one photo looks amazing as if it has been enhanced.
Depending on the quality of photographic equipment and lighting sources, there will always be some variation between a digital photo and viewing a stone with a naked eye.
The experienced buyer will know to take all information into account, including the N tone rating, brightness, shape, dimensions and of course price.
The most common complaint is for blue opals. Most cameras capture the mauve in the stone which the naked eye can’t see. So if you see a mauve stone remember it’s most likely a blue stone.
Pastel colours seem to come out true to form. With Ethiopian opal the red is easy to capture and it will not be as bright in the hand.
If a seller guarantees his stock there is no advantage in over enhancing the pictures as he would have to return too much stock.
Many sellers use a black background as the camera captures the opalat its best. Always ask for a photo taken in the hand.
You can see the two stones below look better in the hand shot which is more natural. The last picture has been enhanced so you notice how the hand looks red and less natural. If you see a hand looking red you know the picture has been enhanced.
Rock the Opal side-to-side and top-to-bottom – rotate it 90 degrees clockwise and repeat, – then again.
Change the angle between the light source, the opal and your eyes and repeat. Rock the opal side to side or top to bottom to change the viewing angle.
Harlequin opal is the most sought after pattern in opal due to its rarity and beauty.
On the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) website, it states: “Harlequin or mosaic – broad, angular, close-set patches of color”.
Originally rounded or floral shapes were not called harlequin but this is now common practice.
On some unscrupulous internet sites many stones are listed as harlequin as the seller believes this will increase its value. Many of these stones would not be called harlequin on the opal fields, however they can still be beautiful and valuable in their own right. It is always important to buy from an opal expert.
In my 20 years experience of selling thousands of stones, I have only had three opals which I consider to contain a true harlequin pattern.
Things to watch for
Synthetic opal are sometimes used in triplets which are much harder to spot. Generally they are very bright with a regular pattern that looks too constant to be natural. It is best to become familiar with a few man made opals (usually advertised as synthetic or man made) so it is easier to recognize them.
Andamooka Matrix is a natural white opal matrix found in Andamooka, South Australia. It has been treated to look like expensive black opal. The treatment is permanent but if you reshape or cut it you will have to re-treat it.
Some of this material is called concert which is more porous than the gem matrix. It is hard to get a good polish on it as it has pores. You can use a resin like liquid glass – or in Australia we use HXmade by Shell. This is an epoxy that soaks in to the stone and gives a good polish. The colours and fire are amazing.
Andamooka Matrix is even great just left in a glass jar as a dazzling specimen.
No Reserve Opal Online Auctions
No reserve opal online auctons are a great entry point for new opal buyers, as the buyer can determine the price at which the item sells. This is generally a good indicator of the value of the item.
For this reason sellers have been known to list a great variety of high quality items to ensure a good selling price, and build up their loyal repeat customer base.
Buying rough opal is always a bit of a gamble as you can’t really see the quality of the precious opal within.
You can lessen the risk if you buy “rubs”. Opal rubs are pieces of rough that have been rubbed down to the colour bar so you can get some idea of the stone it will cut. There is still the risk of inclusions in the stone which may make it smaller than you expect.
Most sellers on the internet wet the rubs or rough before hand to show the colours you can expect when it is polished. Always check the thickness of rubs as if it is too thin it won’t be strong enough for a ring. Any stone around mm thick is too thin and may even need reinforcing in a pendant.
You shouldn’t expect to see a good stone in cheap rough as no seller would deliberately leave it there, however some beautiful stones have been found in rough that looked as if it contained nothing.
Black nobbys from Lightning Ridge are known for there surprises as even the most experienced dealers let some stones slip through in there rough grading process. Nobby rough untouched should always be viewed as a gamble.
With white opal rough it is a rule of thumb that what you paid per gram should cut that per carat as a finished stone.
Buying rough from photos is always difficult so you should check the sellers return policy. If they don’t offer one you should consider taking your business elsewhere. It is generally accepted that if you rub, snip or touch the rough it is considered sold.
Most internet sellers want your repeat business so even if you are not happy with what you have cut you can always ask for a bonus.
Trivia & Tips
The buyers on the internet have a big influence over the shape of the industry. If they return over enhanced stones back to sellers, they will be forcing sellers to more accurately classify their stock so all sellers are on an equal playing field, and it will be easier to compare stock between sellers.
The future is exciting for the opal industry. This beautiful stone is now available at competitive prices to buyers who would normally not have access to it.
The gemstone industry has many levels of dealers but the internet allows you to go direct to the source. New cameras will more accurately capture the true colours of opal and there will be evolving video technology that will allow you to see a stone as if it was in your hand.
The most accurate basic scale
Of the inexpensive, basic digital bathroom scales available, this was the most accurate and precise model we tested. It weighs you every time rather than pulling a reading from memory.
The EatSmart Precision CalPal has a comfortable, wide platform and is attractive enough to leave out on your bathroom floor. Most important, the scale detects changes in weight of a few tenths of a pound, whereas most other scales will only respond reliably to a weight change on the order of half a pound, or will even pull your weight readings from memory without trying to measure you.
Our pick for best basic digital scale offers the essential features most people need in a scale—and then some. It’s comfortable to stand on, the backlit display is one of the largest available (3.inches), it has a 440-pound weight capacity, and it turns on and off instantly. Weight readings are accurate and sensitive, detecting weight changes up to 0.pound when other scales couldn’t. The scale is backed by a confidence-inspiring two-year warranty, too. Also, although it’s a relatively inexpensive bathroom scale, the EatSmart CalPal offers a few more features than just your weight reading, including last reading and memory for up to four people.
If you can live without a backlit display, or if you’re not a fan of the EatSmart CalPal’s glass platform, the Taylor Glass CalMax does almost everything the EatSmart CalPal can do. You’ll trade the convenience of using AAA batteries for the Taylor’s lithium battery and give up a backlit display, but if you’re concerned solely about getting an accurate weight reading, the Taylor Glass CalMax won’t disappoint. For most of our tests, the EatSmart CalPal and the Taylor Glass CalMax offered the same accuracy and precision we’re looking for in our bathroom scale, although our top pick was more accurate than the Taylor Glass CalMax in a couple of our tests.
If you (and your physician) find your weight measurement helpful in progressing toward better health or maintaining the health you have, great—the bathroom scale can be a useful tool.
That said, weight is not a perfect self-contained measure of overall health. Your weight fluctuates throughout the day by between one-tenth of a pound and a few pounds, due to variances like your hydration, when you last ate, and even what you recently ate. “As long as you don’t become overly fixated with the number on the scale, the advantages to using one definitely outweigh the disadvantages,” Pires said. If you (and your physician) find your weight measurement helpful in progressing toward better health or maintaining the health you have, great—the bathroom scale can be a useful tool. The number alone, however, isn’t something to obsess over, and is just one metric of many that can inform your understanding of your body. Smart scales can be more than four times the price of regular digital scales. They aren’t necessarily better than all the other digital scales—they just have more connectivity features. More-advanced digital bathroom scales offer more insights into your health, such as an estimate of body-fat percentage, now considered a better indicator of health than weight alone or BMI (an estimate of body-fat percentage based on weight and height). Only a handful of basic digital scales offer body-fat or other body-composition (e.g., bone-density) readings, so if you want a body-fat percentage estimate, you’ll need to invest in a smart scale. There’s another important reason you might want to spend more on a smart scale compared with one that doesn’t connect to your phone or sync your data online: effortless weight tracking. After jotting down weight readings for a dozen scales over a couple of weeks, we quickly realized the benefits of having a smart scale automatically do the tracking. Gathering that data didn’t take any thought or leave room for error, and it’s one less barrier to regularly monitoring your weight, which is already enough of a hassle for most of us.
How we tested
We set up all the scales in one room according to their manuals and calibrated them as instructed. Then Melanie weighed herself a ridiculous number of times over a three-week period.
All in all, Melanie weighed herself on each scale at least 40 times (more for the scales that ended up being our top picks).
What we learned is that scales often offer a seemingly manufactured sense of precision and accuracy: They may calculate your weight based on your previous readings rather than actually weighing you each time.
How to tame your offset
1) Cook with charcoal, not wood. Wood fires are too hard to manage in a COS, and they can easily spoil the meat with too much smoke, creosote, soot, or ash. A common question: “How much charcoal should I start with?” There are too many variables for a pat answer. It depends on how hot a day it is, how windy, how tight your cooker is, how heavy the metal is, how much cold meat is inside, and where the meat is in the cooking chamber (it can vary as much as 50°F from side to side). This is the craft of BBQ and it will take a few cooks for you to get the feel of your machine. Start with about chimney of lit charcoal and a good thermometer and a cooking log.
2) Preheat the cooker. Start your coals and wait until the cooking chamber is up to temp before putting the meat in. This will help prevent bitter creosote from forming.
3) Add fully lit coals. Use a chimney to start the coals before you start cooking. Then, when the temperature begins to decline because the coals are fading, add only fully lit coals from the chimney.
4) Use good thermometers on both ends. Beware of the fact that the heat near the firebox can be 50°F higher than by the flue. Drill holes in the door on each end and insert a good digital thermometer probe in each to monitor the temperature on both sides of the cooking chamber. Theree are seveeral models that have more than one probe. If you must, mount a couple of Tel-Tru BQ300 Bi-metal Barbecue Thermometers with 4″ stems as indicators, but use a digital next to the meat for real accuracy.
5) Don’t soak your wood chips or chunks. The wood absorbs only about 5% of its weight in water and the water just cools the coals when you add it. This can cause yo-yoing temperatures.
6) Keep the lid closed. Opening the doors, either on the firebox or the cooking chamber, upsets the delicate balance of oxygen on the coals.
7) Rotate the meat. If you have meat on the left and meat on the right, they will need to be switched halfway through the cooking.
8) Learn one vent at a time. Most COS have an intake baffle and a chimney baffle. Begin by controlling the temperature with the intake baffle only and leave the chimney wide open. The intake baffle controls oxygen flow to the coals and has the most impact on cooking temperature. The chimney controls smoke in the cooking chamber (somewhat), and the temperature differential from one side to the other (somewhat). Start with the intake wide open until the chamber is up to temp, and then close it half way or more until the temp stabilizes in the 225-250°F range on the hot side. Never close the intake all the way or the fire can starve and produce creosote. Don’t touch the chimney until the cooking chamber is stable for 30 minutes or more.
9) Go easy on the smoke. It is easy to ruin meat with too much smoke. Use chips, chunks, or pellets. Add about ounces at a time in 3-doses every 30 minutes, starting as soon as the cooking chamber gets over 200°F.
10) Beware of the weather. The ambient temperature will effect the cooking temperature, and rain (or snow) and wind can significantly affect cooking temperature.
11) Pull up a chair. Bring a book, a beer, and some tunes, and stay near your cooker.
13) Use a water pan. Put a grate above the coals and put a water pan on the grate. This will add humidity to the smoke and help the flavor and moistness. Don’t bother putting water pans under the meat, and don’t waste money on apple juice in the pan.
14) Calibrate it with dry runs. The first thing to do after you assemble your new grill or smoker is to season it and calibrate it by doing a few dry runs without food. This will burn off any manufacturer’s grease, and give you a sense for how to set it up to hit the two important target temps that almost all my recipes use: 225°F and 325°F.
Of course, in order to do this, you absolutely positively must have a good digital oven thermometer. I don’t care how much you spent on your grill, the bi-metal dial thermometer that came with it is probably cheap and unreliable and likely to be off by as much as 50°F. Worse still, it is in the dome, and the temp down on the grate where the meat sits is much different. Like a musician, you must master your instrument to make great food.
15) Practice. Practice. Practice. Remember the old joke about the tourist who asked the street vendor how to get to Carnegie Hall? His response was “Practice. Practice. Practice.” Nothing could be more true for owners of COS. Practice without meat. Set it up and run througha cook so you can see how it behaves.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your digital angle gauge wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of digital angle gauge
- №1 — Calculated Industries 7434 AccuMASTER 2-in 1 Magnetic Digital Level and Angle Finder / Inclinometer / Bevel Gauge
- №2 — Tacklife MDP01 Classic Digital Magnetic Angle Gauge Level / Bevel Gauge/ Protractor / Angle Finder with Zinc Alloy Material
- №3 — Wixey WR300 Type 2 Digital Angle Gauge with Backlight